Saturday, 8 January 2022

9th January 2022

 A little more done after a few very hot days when nothing happenned.

Removing sealing rubbers from around doors ready to smooth them off and respreay.

An exercise in secret society induction as you have to do it the correct way, in the correct order while mutterring the correct incantations,


The Boot seal rubber in place



                                                    Boot seal rubber profile


Fuel filler pipe grommet, fits in floor of boot,


The hole it goes in.
Widening the spare wheel well has changed the shape of the hole so we may need a special seal here.



The door seal in place


The door seal profile



The front door door seal front attachment 
Four screws through a moulded in piece.
Some re-engineering of available seals may be required in this area.




Removing the rear door fixed glass 



Removing this glass first requires the total dismantling of the door.

Removal of the winding window, winder mechanism, inner and outer anti rattle dust seals and the bailey channel in the top of the door. This allows the window to be shifted forward and then lifted out.

Only want to do this task once :-)

Tuesday, 4 January 2022

5th January 2022

 After a 6AM start to do some outside work  "Work" = paid employment :-)

Decided at midday that 42 C was too hot to work out in the sun and returned home to consume refreshing beverages, feed the man something and chill.

Into shed but no acetylene until next week so started pulling the doors apart 1 door about 2 hours and an induction into the secret handshake club of door disassemblers and window glass replacement experts.
rest assured that you MUST dismantle in the correct order as you cannot get parts out unless the required other parts are first removed. 

The reverse applies in that you must first insert the moveable glass,,,,, before attaching window channel and winder mechanism. Otherwise you must re-remove the previously inserted items, place the glass in the bottom of the door, re-re-reinstall the guide channel.

To remove the front channel and the quarter window you first open the quarter window, lift the assembly rearwards and upwards slightly, close the quarter window and now you can extract the assembly while ensuring the correct clockwise rotation at the end to get the bottom mount bracket out without damaging the paint finish.

That was 2 hours to get it apart, bearing in mind that I am going to repaint the door and fit all new bailey channel, and other soft door furnishings. So four doors is 8 hours, double that to very carefully reassemble it with new soft bits. Gives a total of 24 hours labour just to pull the doors apart and reassemble them. No allowance yet for time to clean them up, sand them back, fix any dings, defects, rust and such like Then to respray them with a mile deep gloss finish. probably another 24 hours.

At a cheap $50 an hour there is $2400 and we still haven't factored in the bailey channel, the outer and inner rubbers, the draught excluder seal around the door and repairs/replacement  to the inner door trim.

Hence my posts on social media about those who think the rusty wreck in their yard is worth $30K because they see totally restored ones selling for that. The $30K restored job was probably sold at a total loss,  less than half what it took to get it looking so good.

Just as well I am "just in it for LOVE". Doing this because it is enjoyment, not as a JOB.

Us old blokes need something that is a challenge to keep our minds alive......

still doesn't help when I am looking for that 1/4 Whit spanner I had a few moments ago :-)


Enough silly chat here are today's random pictures:


Clever little box of agitated electrons naturally brings the last picture up first.
This is blindingly obvious.... after going back out and looking at the the car :-)
Just to remind me that the flat blade screw is for the wind down window bottom stop bracket.
A picture tells a thousand words but sometimes you have no idea what it is talking about. I cleverly am putting all the bits associated with each door in an old Yoghurt container. My household empties about three of these every week ( That is about 150 every year)  and they are just the right size for random bits I want to keep together. So I have an inexhaustible supply     going green and recycling :-)


This picture shows the plastic extrusion under the door (and window winder) handles 

It can be seen that a larger piece was once used for this purpose. Note to self to research what should be here , not what the DPO used when he reassembled it.



First of a series of pictures around the rear seating space, Looking at installing modern seat belts with a top mounting and perhaps a flow through ventilation outlet duct in this space.


The existing original optional accessory rear seat belts,   lap only for three rear seat passengers of smaller sizes. Are modern human bodies larger???  I think I could only fit two 2022 bodies in this space.



My new front inertia reel installation drivers side 


The centre mounts for the modern seat belts, attached to a custom bracket that bolts the original floor mountings.

I suspect these were an aftermarket addition in a 1966 model as the left and right sides are located differently



Accelerator pedal, need to remove but the unidentifiable whatever that attached it to the floor has rusted up solid. Pedal looks quite serviceable 



Factory original body paint revealed after removing the little cover panels. No wonder they rust!!!


This area will all be painted body colour before reinstalling the cover bits (also painted body colour)

As my father in law said..."Do a little every day and pretty soon it will be finished. He built several very nice boats  by doing a little every day after work, before cracking a beer . :-)


Gone back and corrected auto correct corrections and my own bad English





Monday, 3 January 2022

3rd January 2022

 A new day deserves a new post


So my acetylene cylinder is empty.... no welding until the world wakes up for the new year in a week or so.


Well other stuff needs doing so had a look at a little ding in the back panel.
A solid object had impacted the rear bumper and bent it and created a little ding in the rear panel behind it. The same solid object may have also been responsible for destroying the original fuel tank.
Borrowed the serviceable one from my Series 1 Rapier which bolts right in.
This model has a larger tank than teh earlier Minx models.

It was not a big issue so I just straightened the bumper and bolted it back on.

Pictures of dent in last post so here are some fresh ones:


Dent in rear after a little hammer and dolly work


Two low spots shown up by block sanding


A quick colour prime to see what still needs work





This is as far as you get with one spray can :-)


Nikko pen marks showing two spots needing further work

NOT the final colour, this is just a prime coat to sand back and see where I need any spot putty.



Building a V8 fastback Neville Higgins

 This narrative came from somewhere, including some pictures, It somehow became corrupted. I have recovered the text only and cleaned it up ...